Introduction: Who is Janez Pretnar?
Janez Pretnar is one of Slovenia’s most experienced and respected mountain and travel guides, with a career spanning more than four decades. Known for his deep knowledge of South America—especially Peru, Bolivia, and Chile—he has led countless groups through some of the world’s most remote and breathtaking landscapes. His journeys are not limited to the Andes: Pretnar has also guided travelers in Africa (including Kilimanjaro), New Zealand, Central America, and across Europe.
Starting as a mountaineer in his hometown club in Radovljica, Janez combined his passion for the mountains with organizational skills and a love for teaching. Over the years, he became involved with the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS), took part in international expeditions, and played a key role in shaping Slovenia’s hiking and travel programs. He is also a licensed tourist guide, enabling him to merge cultural insight with outdoor adventure.
Beloved by his clients for his calm demeanor, encyclopedic knowledge, and respect for local cultures, Pretnar is more than just a guide—he’s a storyteller, educator, and bridge between worlds. Whether hiking through Andean highlands, sharing historical anecdotes on a bus ride, or navigating logistic challenges with ease, Janez Pretnar brings authenticity and expertise to every journey.
“Do you need a guide for trekking in Peru and Bolivia? The best one? Go with Pretnar.” Janez, how do you respond to that kind of dialogue?
Well, I’m not sure if travelers actually talk like that, but it’s true that I’ve been going to Latin America for more than thirty years. It started with Mexico, then Ecuador with the Galápagos Islands, and gradually the other Andean countries. Some routes are well established, but I still discover new twists and corners that are fresh and exciting even for me. South America is vast, and there are still plenty of unexplored spots. Of course, I don’t guide only there—I gladly lead groups to Kenya and Tanzania with Kilimanjaro, New Zealand, Central America (especially Guatemala), Cuba, Morocco, and nearby European countries. Recently, I’ve grown fond of Madeira with its diversity. I love taking hikers or cyclists to Dalmatia, and I also lead week-long cycling tours for an agency, including in the Netherlands and Ireland. I’m equally happy to guide retirees, who are truly a grateful audience—from Višarje to Rovinj, and proper tourist trips to Elba, Corsica, Provence, Rome…
You’re a specialist for trekking in South America. That implies backpacking and camping in uninhabited areas. But you started as a mountaineer!
I must clarify right away—I don’t guide treks in the strictest sense. What I do are mountaineering-tourist trips. Let me briefly explain the difference, since the term “trekking” is often misused and even tour organizers don’t clearly distinguish between the two. The word “trek” originates from the Afrikaans dialect spoken by the Dutch settlers (Boers) in South Africa and means a long journey. Trekking can last several weeks and typically involves carrying everything yourself through regions where there are no huts or shelters. That’s a real trek—for example, in Peru around the Cordillera Huayhuash or the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or in Tibet around Mount Kailash. Our journeys are a mix of tourism and hiking: staying in simple hotels and lodges, and only occasionally camping, plus climbing certain peaks. We also focus on discovering natural and cultural attractions and engaging with locals.
Yes, I started out as a mountaineer. It all began with the youth section of the Radovljica Mountaineering Club, going on trips, becoming a youth guide and later a mountain guide, and working in skiing as an instructor. My skiing skills allowed me to spend several winters on Vogel. I’ve held all kinds of roles in my home mountaineering club—from head of the youth section and club manager to president. I’m still a member of the club’s executive board. I had similar involvement with the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS), where I was responsible for orientation under the Youth Commission and part of the editorial board of the Alpine Gazette. I was fortunate to work with people like Dr. Miha Potočnik, Evgen Lovšin, and Janko Ravnik. Then came a turning point in 1974 with the expedition to Mount McKinley, where I ended up with frostbite. A year later, we did our first real trek, approaching a successful expedition to Makalu. I’ve been involved ever since—more than forty years, and I have no regrets. Later, I also obtained a tourist guide license, which helped me become a full-time professional guide in 2002.
You surely know the Summit DAV from the German Alpine Club. Where did the PZS miss the train to set up a similar outdoor agency?
The PZS’s Commission for International Cooperation was the seed of such an organization. It handled connections with neighboring mountain clubs as well as trips and ski tours. It was long led by Mirko Fetih—“Mka”—and I succeeded him, continuing the exploration of new destinations. That was the time when mountaineers started visiting the Himalayas and Andes—areas once reserved for alpinists. A similar shift happened with commercial expeditions, which broke the taboo of reserving the highest peaks for the elite. But let’s be clear: not “summiting Everest at any cost”—even over corpses. It’s easy to talk in theory over a beer, but the reality on the ground, with the urge to reach the summit, is another story.
You can’t compare us with major operators—while the goals and execution are similar, the bigger market means they can be more aggressive. PZS had the vision to start a similar agency—we had a confirmed organizational structure for an LLC, the statutes were ready, and I was appointed head of the agency (though not as a full-time employee). But before it could launch, some young folks got more interested in how the profits would be shared. That’s where it ended. The idea is still alive, and it should be realized—not just for hiking tourism, but for other commercial activities of the Alpine Association.
But your journey started with PZS. Having that kind of foundation is a dream for any guide. Surely it was a decisive factor for you, too?
The base isn’t that wide. Slovenians are indeed a traveling nation—proportionally, there are likely more of us than Germans, who are considered global travelers. And if we compare GDP per capita, we surpass them even more. However, Slovenians are also highly individualistic. With the development of transport, tourism, and access to information, people are more inclined toward independent travel. We do have circles of travelers who stick together, but our market isn’t large enough for big tour operators. Everything is more boutique here—which is better in some ways, allowing for more personalized experiences.
Where is PZS today? The travel commission still exists—but how active is it really?
As I mentioned, the idea of a travel agency is still alive, but there’s stiff competition in a relatively small market. We also pay too little attention to incoming tourism, although new ideas are emerging in that space too. After Slovenia gained independence, the Commission for International Cooperation got broader responsibilities. Within it, we established the Adventure Travel Committee, which later became the Commission for Mountain Travel, and it’s still active today. The split worked because we had constructive dialogue with the late Dr. Tomaž Vrhovec, who remained a member until his accident.
The commission creates a program and does its best to implement it—this includes Friendship Trail hikes, ski touring, and travel programs. One standout initiative is the “4000 Club,” which organizes guided ascents of easier 4000-meter peaks. Each member prepares and leads programs independently. Because of the variety of activities, we include both tourist and mountain guides. For more complex logistics, we work with travel agencies. We also provide information to individuals, groups, and clubs planning their trips.
Groups tend to be smaller than they used to be, but our program is diverse and published online. Past participants are notified personally, though I admit our marketing could be better.
Where did your love for Latin America come from—Peru in particular?
I’ve always been fascinated by exotic countries. At home, we had a Brockhaus encyclopedia from 1895 that showed unexplored areas on the maps. A decisive factor was also a group of friends eager to travel. I had experience organizing similar things, and that’s how it started.
What captivated me most were the people—more direct and genuine—the contrasts of snowy peaks and jungle, and the ancient cultures. I can’t say Peru is my absolute favorite, as Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina also leave strong impressions—with their vast deserts, endless high plateaus, cities, lakes, and potato and grain fields at 4,000 meters above sea level.
Do you feel at home there by now? When did it all begin?
In some places, yes, I do feel at home. I prefer smaller towns, which are safer and where people are more open. I work with many local contacts—hotels, agencies—and often a phone call is enough for reservations and even payment on the spot. Your word still counts there, and I’ve rarely had bad experiences.
It all began in 1978 with Mexico, and in 1980 I went to Ecuador and Peru.
Where necessary, I hire local guides for a day or two in mountain towns. In recent years, the number of reliable local guides has grown—some have even graduated from ENSO in France. In Kilimanjaro’s case, local guides are mandatory and included in the package price.
Over so many years, you must have had unforgettable experiences. Tell us a particularly positive one.
There were many, but one stands out: in Arica, Chile, they welcomed us as Slovenian citizens and even found a Slovenian flag. Another special moment was a concert by the Bolivian group Kjarkas in La Paz. Tickets were long sold out. I pleaded with the management, and one of the musicians overheard me. They added gym benches by the entrance, and we got in. It was a beautiful evening—we had a full bus of attendees.
Another highlight is always meeting Slovenians in Argentina—in Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Bariloche. I visited them even during Yugoslavia’s time, bringing books and building connections. I got to know their lives and literature and brought some of it back, even when it wasn’t exactly encouraged. I met mountaineers like Dinko Bertoncelj, Boris Kambič, and Vojko Arek—real mountain men!
And a bad experience?
One I’ll never forget: on the summit of the technically easy 6,000-meter Chachani in Peru, one participant broke a leg. We had to carry him down ourselves. Thankfully, our group was large and included a doctor. We had the right gear, and the weather helped.
In Arequipa, the military part of the airport was ready with a rescue helicopter. I flew with the pilot, a young major—but he couldn’t hover at 5,400 meters. The rescue had to continue on foot—but it was successful. The pilot later managed to fly up to 6,400 meters, and the view over the volcanoes was divine. I had no camera.
Once, I literally fled Peru to escape a cholera outbreak—crossing into Ecuador just before the border closed. I was alone and later reunited with my group in Quito.
Who are your clients, and why do they choose to travel to South America?
There’s no strict rule. Most are older—some retired or nearing retirement—but we’ve also had students. Women tend to outnumber men. Some in their seventies have successfully summited peaks, so age isn’t a barrier. These trips aren’t cheap; some can afford them more regularly, others save for years—making it their dream or once-in-a-lifetime journey.
Travel documentaries often inspire people—South America is a popular theme. Unfortunately, many of these are repetitive and full of clichés. Still, they help people decide to go. Many are also inspired by stories told by others.
How much do you pamper your clients? How much do they have to do themselves—is everything handed to them?
The mentality of travelers has changed. Thanks to the internet and other resources, people know much more and come prepared—not only physically, but also armed with historical and geographic knowledge. A good guide has to be ready for the most unexpected questions.
Traveling can be physically demanding. The biggest challenge is adjusting to different climates and altitudes. I plan the itineraries to gradually increase sleeping altitudes. The hardest transition is flying directly to Cusco (3,200 meters), but I have my own way of easing that.
It’s also important that travelers can shape parts of the trip themselves. We remain flexible and adjust the itinerary as needed.
Is Latin America changing? You guide people to fairly remote places—what changes have you noticed?
Fortunately, Latin America is currently free from revolutions and coups. Guerrilla activity is now mostly limited to Colombia and occasionally Central America. Economies are growing—Chile is considered a Pacific Tiger. Infrastructure is improving: roads are being built across the continent, especially the Pacific-Atlantic axis. Brazil, now a global economic power, drives much of this growth and influences the region’s economy.
You see real improvements—villages in the Andes are getting roads, water, and sanitation. But bureaucracy and corruption remain big hurdles. Then again, where don’t they?
These changes mean that travelers now move faster and safer. Transportation is more regular—there’s no comparison with decades past. Some people want to see “real” Indigenous communities—but these are rare and require special permits to enter remote reserves.
We hear about climate change and melting glaciers every day. Have you noticed it on your travels?
Yes, climate change is real—even across the ocean. Locals say the weather is no longer split between wet and dry seasons. Rain falls in intense bursts, leading to erosion and flooding. El Niño’s impact is worse than before. Glaciers are retreating. You can’t trust the old maps—many glaciers are now barren moraines.
I track glaciers in Bolivia and Peru. On Chacaltaya, there was once a ski lift—now just a patch of ice remains. It’s the same under Huayna Potosi. Kilimanjaro too. I photograph from the same locations over the years, and people are shocked by the glacier loss.
How do you handle sales? Do you leave that to agencies?
I mostly work as a freelance tourist guide—agencies hire me, and I’m not tied by contracts. For trips organized by the Commission for Mountain Travel, we operate as a team, which gives participants greater confidence and ensures trips happen. The worst disappointment for a traveler is a canceled trip—especially after preparing physically, mentally, and financially.
What’s your take on the relationship with mountain guides? Does it concern you—or do you just do your own thing?
That’s a complex issue. The Mountain Guide Act split guides into two camps. In my opinion, the Mountain Guides claimed too much. Some stakeholders slept through the legislative process. There’s a sense of condescension from Mountain Guides—you can see it in interviews, such as the one with the president of their association.
It’s not so black and white. Yes, Mountain Guides have higher demands in terms of technical climbing and safety skills. But some training overlaps—like orientation, first aid, group psychology. I believe both types of guides must master these, regardless of GPS or good maps.
It’s absurd that a mountain guide can legally lead a group, but a hiking guide can’t—even if registered as a sole proprietor. For example: I can legally lead a scheduled trip to Roblek on Saturday, but on Sunday I’m not allowed to lead a group of tourists on the same path from a campsite. Where’s the logic in that?
Claims that it’s the same in other countries aren’t fully true. Sure, Western Alps authorities crack down on fake guides—but those countries also have a well-developed system of various guide categories like we do. No one persecutes hiking guides on marked long-distance trails in Austria or the French Central Massif. Madeira was fine too.
Slovenia is densely covered with hiking trails, most in mid-mountain terrain. I won’t debate guiding methods—Mountain Guides certainly excel at technical climbing—but our guide training is certified by national authorities, and the PZS’s training commission does a good job.
How would you regulate this? Today, hiking guides can legally sell their services. But it took some “acrobatics” to get there. In the end, PZS did support its “core” members. After all, Mountain Guides don’t have “mountain hiking” in their title…
I still believe closer cooperation is essential. We shouldn’t divide guides into “ours” and “theirs.” Our goals are the same—only the guiding styles and difficulty levels differ. Hiking guides should be allowed to work independently if they’re properly registered (sole proprietor, certified sports worker) and operate within their qualifications.
Until recently, I could only guide freely as a tourist or ski instructor. Now, the title “independent sports worker” is recognized and I welcome that. Anyone up for the challenge should go for it. I believe many hiking guides are interested and can meet the needs of travel agencies.
Wondering whether hiking guides are worth less than mountain guides? It all depends on the individual’s experience, personality, and reputation. There are guideline rates, but supply and demand will ultimately decide. Still, it’s right that these rates be public.
What’s the training like? Do you learn the right things?
The training of hiking and youth guides has evolved. Times change, as do knowledge, equipment, and mindset. But I’m convinced the guiding philosophy has always centered on safety, ongoing education, and adapting to new trends. That was true 40 years ago in Šlajmarca in Vrata Valley and is still true today with the recent A-level course in Gorenjska.
There’s never enough knowledge—you have to keep learning. I would even add more content, but the syllabus is already packed, leaving little time for discussion and socializing. The basics are taught, but if you want more, you have to put in the effort. That’s true in all aspects of life.
In both club and commercial trips, hiking and mountain guides also deal with tourism, history, and curiosities. Too often, the drive to the trailhead goes without commentary—why not use that time to explain interesting facts? It’s a chance for educational enrichment—also in terms of nature conservation and new trends in ecology.
Does this “profession” have a future? What are the trends and challenges ahead?
Without sounding one-sided—I do believe this profession has a future. But both the role and the content will evolve, based on tourism trends. Despite today’s economic crisis, tourism will reinvent itself—with new stories to tell. Just guiding, whether tourist or mountain, won’t be enough. We’ll need to combine skills, maybe drop some… what to drop—that’s a task for the future guides, no matter what we call them.
We don’t have to look far. Summit DAV deliberately trains mountain-tourist guides who, together with locals, offer a complete experience. They also train cultural and travel guides. There’s a whole spectrum of guiding roles emerging. Market niches are waiting.
Same with the German company Hauser, which has 200 guides—trekking, mountain, or high-altitude specialists. Or ASI – Alpinschule Innsbruck, which employs 160 mountain, hiking, and travel guides, full-time and part-time. I wish I had the breakdown by category.
Any advice from an old veteran to the younger generation? And where are you heading next?
Giving advice is tricky and a big responsibility. But I’ll say this: be patient, keep learning, and always refresh your knowledge.
I’ll be home on and off in July. On August 13, I begin my usual trip to Peru, Bolivia, and Chile. In early September, I head to Albania. At the end of September, Mexico. Then two trips to Central America—mainly tourism. I hope my health holds up.